[FINE PRINT]
disclaimer : i've posted this here for informational purposes. if you aren't proficient with basic hand and power tools then run away now. if you manage to cut your thumb off, blind your cat or any other calamity that may ensue - well, that sucks but the author (me) and owner of the site (bill) cannot be held responsible. If you manage to build one without maiming yourself and any pets and somehow nuke your tank in using it, well thats not any good either but we cant be held responsible for that as well - im just showing you how I managed to put one together.[/FINE PRINT]
Using the base instructions from
here I put together one of these the a couple of weeks ago. Please read through the initial how to, I will skim some of the things that are done there that i did the same. I changed a few things and documented it all so here is my write up:
First off, all the photos I took during the build are
hereParts and supplies:
Hardware:
2' section of 4" black ABS pipe (1)
4" black ABS flange (1)
4" black ABS Cleanout (1)
4" black ABS threaded plug (1)
1/2" CPVC T (1)
1/2" CPVC 90 deg elbow (1)
1/2" CPVC to 1/2" npt adapter (3)
1/2" PCV threaded cap (1)
1/2" CPVC pipe 2' length (1)
1/2" OD PEX tubing 1' (1)
1/4" OD PEX tubing ?
1/4" NPT to John Guest ball valve (2)
1/4" NPT to John Guest adapter (1)
Tools/ETC:
Tubing Cutter
Ruler
Drill
7/16 drill bit
11/16 drill bit
1/4" NPT Tap
1/2" NPT Tap
Maxi Jet 900
Aqualifter Pump
Sulfur Media
ARM Media
In the original write up they have a formula on how much sulfur media to use for the volume of water you have in your system. Mine worked out to be approx .3 liter of sulfur media.
In the original instructions it said to use a 2' section of 4" PVC pipe. Well i looked EVERYWHERE and could not find any 4" pvc or fittings unless I ordered them online. Not wanting to do that i just used 4" black ABS pipe. Well for my system that much pipe would end up leaving me alot of dead space above the media/arm. Nein gut in my opinion. I ended up cutting the 2" section of pipe down to about 16".
So here's all the bits and bobs laid out:
PVC and ABS cement, one 1/2" threaded cap, three 1/2" CPVC slip to 1/2 NPT thread fittings, one 1/2" 90 deg CPVC elbow, one 1/2" CPVC T, 1/8 NPT to John Guest check valve, 1/2" PEX tubing, and two 1/4" NPT to John Guest ball valves.
2' of 4" black ABS pipe, length of 1/2" CPVC pipe, 4" ABS closet test flange, 3" ABS drain grate, 4" ABS female slip to female threaded clean out, and 4" ABS threaded cap.
So lets get to work...
First thing was to cut the 2' section of pipe down to 16"
Then using the black ABS cement I glued the closet flange to the bottom to create the base.
I then glued the threaded female clean out trap to the top.
At this point it was time to start on the lid. Here are all the parts laid out: 4" threaded PVC cap, 7/16 drill bit, 1/4 NPT tap and 1/4" NPT to John Guest ball valve.
First you drill your hole
Then you tap the hole to make threads. Word of advice, only run the tap in about halfway, just enough to fully form the threads - any further and you end up having loose threads and have to use a butt load of teflon thread sealing tape so it wont leak.
Threaded John Guest ball valve installed. This is there to bleed off any excess hydrogen gas that could possibly build up inside the reactor. The original plans said to use a 3/8 npt to John Guest adapter then run a short length of tube and then use a John Guest ball valve. I got the 1/4 NPT to JG valve since it eliminated an extra piece of plumbing (to possibly fail) and was about 2 bucks cheaper as well.
Cut a 1" section of 1/2" CPVC pipe
These are the parts that make the water input for the unit. 1/2" threaded PVC cap, 1/2" CPVC to 1/2 NPT adapter, 1" section of 1/2" CPVC pipe and 1/2" CPVC T.
Drill 7/16 hole and cut threads in hole with 1/4 NPT tap.
Next glue 1" section of CPVC pipe into the horizontal run of the T fitting.
Glue the 1/2" CPVC slip to 1/2 NPT threaded adapter to the other end of the 1" CPVC part.
Thread 1/4 NPT to JG fitting into tapped hole.
Thread cap with JG fitting onto 1/2 NPT male glued to the T
Next we make the return that goes in the bottom of the pipe. This consists of a piece of 1" CPVC, 1/2" CPVC slip to 1/2 NPT adapter, and a short length of 1/2" PEX tubing.
Next we make our hole where the adapter we just made goes in the 4" ABS. Drill with the 11/16 bit and then thread with the 1/2" NPT tap.
This is a nice hole, too bad its too big.. Always double check your sizes before you punch holes in things. I drilled through the scrap piece i had first to make sure things were kosher when i tapped it. To my amazement the tap wouldnt fit, the hole was too big.
Here's our bottom fitting installed.
Here's that 3" grate at the bottom of the assembly. This keeps things off the bottom so water can circulate evenly.
Here are all the rest of the bits for the circulation/intake section.
For your own sanity, PLEASE dry fit everything before you glue it together. I did and found out the long section of pipe was a bit too long, needed to trim off about one half of an inch to make everything fit right.
Here's everything finally together and ready to go.
Now we need to get the effluent out of the reactor. Here's where that happens. I put my effluent hole 180 degrees from the top hole for the recirculation assembly. Drill your 7/16 hole and cut threads with the 1/4 NPT tap. Thread the other 1/4" NPT to John Guest Ball valve into this hole.
Here it all is put together.
After letting all the glue cure for 24 hours I wet tested it for leaks, of which i found a couple. The first really apparent leak I found was where the maxi jet seals to its cover. Got some silicone o-ring goop and gooped up the o-ring on the maxi-jet. That leak was fixed. Too bad there was another leak that wasnt in such an easy spot to fix. I apparently didnt glue the maxi-jet output nozzle into the CPVC well enough so it was a very small dribble from there. Salt creep would eventually plug it (more than likely) but I needed to be able to run it dry with no leaks. Dam, cant fix that without cutting the whole recirculation bit apart.
So in hindsight there would be a couple of things I would do different.
- attach the recirc section via unions. Had i done this i wouldn't have to cut it all apart and re-build it.
- find a better way to attach the pump - now with the cover for the maxi-jet glued in and leaking its junk and i need to find another.
Thanks to Bill's Haüs of misc plumbing bits and tool loaning and Lanny's Casa De maxi-jet o-rings and silicone o-ring goop.
